Our executive officer sat down with Angus Hughson in February 2026 to discuss his impressions of the Limestone Coast!

EC: In advance of your visit to the Limestone Coast for Vinous, Angus, you’ll be driving in from Adelaide this time, right? 

AH:  Yes indeed. The great thing about Vinous is that our team generally visit wine regions to take the regional temperature. I do love driving around to get a refresher on the diverse landscapes in any region that I am tasting in and also the surrounding land. Are the vineyards looking in good condition and well looked after, how does the vintage feel, and is the land looking heathy and vibrant, or does it feel stretched and stressed, and so on. The condition of old trees is also particularly useful to scope, whether they are healthy or looking worse for wear. And what I see often, but not always, sets the tone for what to expect at the tasting bench. 

EC: Boiling it all down to a handful of words, what would you most like to see in wines from the Limestone Coast?

AH: What I love more than anything is to find wines that show genuine sophistication. They don’t need to be the most concentrated or long-lived wines, although that helps, but I think what Australia needs right now more than anything are wines that not only showcase their regional terroirs but also have some sophistication in their execution. They show well-managed winemaking and viticulture, but they are not simply going through the motions; they are wines with genuine intent and decisions have been made to, at least try to, make delicious wines with real personality. In the modern wine world, wineries and regions that elevate themselves above the competition in terms of sophistication and personality will survive.

EC: Let’s go for a spin in the region from top to bottom, since that’s the you’ll be driving in. But we won’t start with the most obvious region you’ll enter, which is Padthaway. Rather let’s begin with the unromantically designated region known as ‘Limestone Coast Other’. And there is an exciting little stretch of ‘Limestone Coast Other’ in the northern-most area of the region near Mundulla and Bordertown. There have been vineyards here for ages, but some more recent plantings of alternative varieties are taking out some pretty impressive gongs. Have you tasted many wines from this corner of the Limestone Coast? 

AH:  I have seen a handful of wines, including a handy Lagrein from Anita at Wangolina. But not enough to say too much, yet…

EC: After our detour towards Mundulla, we fall into Padthaway. I know a handful of wine critics who are fond of some of the chardonnay vineyards in this area. What makes the chardonnay have so much potential to become outstanding wines? And which producers – past and present – do you associate with quality chardonnay? 

AH:  I have to be honest, I also don’t see that many Chardonnays from the region regularly so I can’t really comment on particular producers. But what I can say is I have fond memories of the old Lindeman’s Padthaway Chardonnay and I think a similar but slightly more modern style from Padthaway could really resonate in the modern global landscape, so I am hoping to see lots of Chardonnay that is not shy with generous power but also the subtlety that I associate with the region.

EC: But there’s plenty more to Padthaway than chardonnay, right?

AH:  Yes absolutely. Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignons can also be a stand-out and a recent old bottle of Lawson’s was delicious!

EC: Heading south again into Wrattonbully, a region that has long been associated with the glorious and sometimes luxurious wines of superbrands like Penfolds and Yalumba, but which now provides fruit to a healthy group of smaller boutique wine brands based in the Limestone Coast and also across the state of South Australia. Can Wrattonbully hit the big time?

AH:  Wrattonbully I believe is a bit of an unsung hero and I have had some genuinely world class wines from the region made from a diverse range of grape varieties. So there is opportunity but, from my perspective, it lacks a common story that can make it easy for the trade and consumers to get their head around it. No doubt, the long history of fruit used for significant brands not based locally has stunted the development of a local brand, and also, I think, how vignerons view themselves and their place in a global context. The same happened historically in McLaren Vale and now their regional brand is in much better shape as premium-focussed winemakers are driving the local narrative. I am really looking forward to tasting new vintages and getting a greater understanding of all the region has to offer right now.

EC: What is Wrattonbully’s greatest attribute? 

AH:  Probably continentality. That location further land combined with limestone and terra rossa soils delivers potential for powerful, long lived wines that can also retain subtlety when the vineyards are well managed. 

EC: Southward again we head into Coonawarra, a region that once leaned into its reputation for being a ‘red centre’ (and even adopted this as a regional brand slogan). Here’s a region that will always be associated with cabernet sauvignon, in particular. What is the most memorable cabernet from Coonawarra that you’ve ever tasted? 

AH:  I am a big fan of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and am a genuine believer in its potential to sit comfortably among the great regions of the world for this variety. I’ve had great wines from Penfolds, Wynns and Yalumba as well as Redman, Lindeman’s, Balnaves and Parker, as well as a Woodley’s Treasure Chest years ago, well before I understood the importance of these wines. 

EC: ‘If Coonawarra were a band’, to quote Matilda Innes from Ottelia, ‘cabernet will always be the lead singer, but a lead singer needs some back-up singers’. What varieties – apart from cabernet – do you think have the greatest potential to thrive in Coonawarra?

AH:  Hmmmm, a bit of a tough one. Clearly Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz have had the most focus. Shiraz can clearly make great wines but, at least for the moment, in the majority of seasons for mine it does not hit the heights of Cabernet Sauvignon. I also wonder about vine age and clones for the other varieties – I don’t think we are seeing the best of these wines regularly, although there is the occasional star, and also the styles are still in a state of flux. So the jury here is out and I think there needs to be another decade of effort to really nail potentially Cabernet Franc and Merlot, although a recent Cabernet Petit Verdot from Parker Estate suggested that more Bordeaux varieties may be a good fit.

EC: A number of died-in-the-wool Coonawarra labels have branched out of the region in recent vintages to source fruit from parcels grown in other parts of the Limestone Coast. What, if anything, does the trend say about Coonawarra as a wine region?

AH:  I think it is great to see well known Coonawarra winemakers branching out, bringing their brands and winemaking expertise into the wider Limestone Coast region. I think it comes from an understanding in Coonawarra that there are other terroirs in the region worth exploring, and, where quality fruit can be picked up at relatively cheap prices, this provides a significant opportunity. I also reckon there is a move locally toward a more innovative mindset and an understanding that, even the most famous wine regions such as Bordeaux for example, cannot rely on the status quo and actually must keep a strong eye on the future to ensure ongoing relevancy. 

EC: Before we hook around the coast, let’s take a detour into Mount Gambier. Long famous for a very blue lake and a pretty unusual sinkhole, the region has in more recent times become famous for plantings of chardonnay, riesling, pinot gris, and pinot noir, among other varieties. What if any are your impressions of Mount Gambier?

AH:  Last time I was in town for a Vinous article, I tasted some of the Ottelia Mount Gambier wines and asked John Innes to take me down to the vineyards as I could taste something special and unique, and I have seen nothing since which has made me question that initial impression. It’s quite an exciting time, I would think, as winemakers hone into the right styles for the terroir. I’d love to see more vineyards here, as I think it is a special place with those volcanic and limestone soils… even for Sauvignon Blanc (!).

EC: Let’s head over to Mount Benson, which represents a wonderful combination of old and new. There are some seriously good wines coming out of this region, and more and more white wines, in particular. Where has this region come from – and where do you think it is heading? 

AH:  I remember when Chapoutier opened up their Mount Benson project and there was plenty of excitement in the industry about a global superstar investing in a largely unheralded part of South Australia. I always enjoyed the wines and their elegant style which fits the new global landscape. The emerging stylish whites and light-bodied reds I feel are a good way forward.

EC: And finally, of course, little old Robe is just a trundle away. Once a fairly significant viticultural bastion of Southcorp, today this small region is home to a handful of boutique producers too. How do you see Robe in the overall Limestone Coast picture?

AH:  I have had some attractive and generous wines from Robe but, for me, it definitely lacks a strong regional signature with a user-friendly wine style my main takeaway. 

EC: You’ve been watching the Limestone Coast closely for several years now. What are some of the most important trends or developments that you have seen in the wines coming out of the region over, say, the past seven or eight years? 

AH:  I think there are two elements to this: what is happening in the region; and what is happening in the global market. Starting with the consumer, the world is moving toward more elegant wines and, where global warming is making some wines bolder and richer than they have been in the past, this presents an opportunity for the Limestone Coast to fill this space. So this has seen winemakers and growers embracing the local conditions rather than sometimes making wines in a riper style that was not always in their best interest. The tight local market has also brought more innovation as wineries try to develop styles for new markets. All of this has seen the region really up its game over the last decade to become more future fit.

EC: The wine industry feels troubled at the moment, with structural grape oversupply and wine inventories skyrocketing across the country. What are some of the challenges and perhaps some of the opportunities that the region faces at the moment? 

AH:  It is important to note that oversupply is everywhere, not just in Limestone Coast, and Australia; this is a global phenomenon. But against that backdrop is the reality that consumers are drinking better but less. I do not feel that wine is going to suddenly lose its place in the world and its innate beauty will, like quality food, ensure that it survives although the shape of the industry will be very different. But there is an upside for Limestone Coast in that consumers are moving away from big red wines to more elegant reds and white wines which is where the region plays best. The key challenge is how Limestone Coast and the various zones increase their visibility both with the classics as well as potentially finding new breakthrough styles of white wines and lighter weight reds that capture market interest. In addition, Cabernet Sauvignon still remains the world’s leading premium grape variety so clearly the opportunity remains for Coonawarra and Wrattonbully to find a bigger niche on the global stage, especially considering their price when the competing wines from France, Italy and North America at the same quality are significantly more expensive. 

EC: You’re setting yourself up for a serious tasting – I believe the word you use is ‘extensive’ – at Parker. What attributes are you hoping to see in the exhibits submitted for your examination? 

AH:  I want to see all that the Limestone Coast has to offer and its diversity in well made wines that show genuine sophistication. The wine world is moving at a rate of knots and who knows where it will be in ten years time. So cutting edge wines must always be an important element, showcasing when the right grape varieties have been chosen and matched with appropriate sites. But also: where are the leading local wines sitting against the best in the world, particularly from 2024? Vinous is firmly focused on the top end of town and the country as a whole needs better recognition of our country’s best wines, and the extraordinary value that many deliver, especially against many global benchmarks.

EC: Tell us more about the scoring process for Vinous. Every publication seems to go about their scoring systems a little differently…

AH:  Vinous unashamedly position ourselves at the old school end of the spectrum by marking on the harder side so 90 points from Vinous is a good score. Importantly, this is understood by Vinous readers and the trade. We are always marking wines against the greatest wines from around the world rather than within a local context which is part of the publication’s strong credibility. I think that global context is often missing in Australia, which is vital for understanding where we stand in the international environment, so that is an important part of what we deliver as a team.

EC: If a producer wants to submit their wines for tasting, what instructions, and maybe what final words of advice or encouragement, would you have for them? 

AH:  Vinous is primarily focused upon more premium wines so put your best foot forward. I know sometimes there are 20 cases that have been sitting at the back of the shed and there is the hope that a good score might help move it but these are not the wines worth submitting. Focus on your best wines but also wines where you are trying something a bit different, whether in grape variety or winemaking. What have you got to lose?

EC: Thanks for taking the time to go on this virtual tour with me, Angus. We’ll be seeing you in a couple of weeks! 

AH:  My pleasure – hopefully the weather holds and I will be able to view a great vintage coming off the vines.